Some Thoughts on Trailers

Whether you are looking to pick up a trailer or getting ready for that first spring tow read on for some considerations. While a used trailer may look like a good way to go, or if shopping for a new one, make sure you know all the in’s and out’s. Don't buy used to save a little and then be sorry later. Could it work? Sure, but consider everything below and the potential "real" cost may be higher. Know what you are getting and what you need. Do an annual spring check of your trailer or shop with a trailer checklist if looking used. Has yours been inspected this spring?

Trailers have weight ratings just like tow vehicles. The axles are rated. Most car trailers are dual-axle. Know the trailer and tow vehicle weight limits. If you are at the maximum you are asking a lot of the equipment. How much can it carry? Read the manufacturer's plate on the trailer or the manual. Leave a pad. Your tow vehicle normally has more frequent service intervals for towing. You do work the tow vehicles transmission and engine more. Do you need a flush and fill on your transmission, an oil change? Are the tow vehicle brakes okay?

States may require trailer inspections. A trailer is considered a vehicle and as such would normally have a VIN, title, plate and insurance. You pay property tax like a car. Do not forget the title or registration when going to Canada. There are maximum widths, 8’6” is a common max and will feel tight at most toll booths. Check your states DMV for requirements they may differ from Connecticut’s here.

In Connecticut, for example, any trailer with a GVWR over 3000lbs is assumed to be carrying that weight and needs brakes on all wheels (electric or surge style.) Above 8000lbs you must have electric brakes. Your state may differ, probably does, but consider this- single axle brakes are marginal even where allowed. You will be towing maybe 5000lbs or more loaded and that weight is behind you and your family. Single axle brakes would be like a 5k SUV behind you that will brake like a 5k SUV with the parking brake handle pulled. In other words it will not stop like your tow vehicle so where will it go? Here is a great inspection checklist from Featherlight, see here.

Most trailers with brakes have drum style brakes actuated by electric or surge systems. For surge style actuated brakes, deceleration compresses the neck of the trailer and actuates a master cylinder. Electric brakes have one of two style controllers, proportional or time delayed. Get advice on the best unit for you but they both send a signal electrically to the drum brakes based upon braking the tow vehicle. There are some differences in the units but they both are mounted under the driver’s dash somewhat unobtrusively. Electric brake trailers will have a small battery mounted on the frame for backup power. How old is your battery? How many winters has it sat outside uncharged?

Your trailer needs (by law) breakaway chains and a way to actuate the trailer brakes if it breaks away from the tow vehicle. The brakes should automatically come on when a lanyard extends. If you jackknife or just break a hitch you want the trailer brakes ON. When were your trailer brakes last inspected?

Is it really big enough? When you get your car on can you open your doors without removing the wheel fenders? Can you get your car on? Many use the tongue jack to pick up the tongue and depress the rear. Are the boarding ramps adequate for your cars clearance even this way? If you are ever looking to put a tire rack on it 18' is good, 15' maybe getting too tight. You have to park your car on the trailer so that the weight of the car is relatively balanced and puts a pretty measured amount on the hitch. Most recommend 9-15% of the trailer weight so you are looking to park in a spot that results in maybe 500lbs +/- on the ball. If the trailer is too small you have to park on it where you fit and this may result in either a very light load on the hitch or conversely a very heavy load which effects tow vehicle handling and maybe the trailer to sway too. With a short trailer you are limited in options. If you have to move the car around to tweak the tongue weight can you do it AND still find adequate tie downs? How much tongue weight do you have?

How do the tie-down anchors, ratchets and straps look? Four usually is enough. Many use an "X" pattern with the car in neutral and the parking brake on. Are yours in good shape?

How's the rubber? After a few years dry rot is an issue. How are the tires wearing? 2/32” is minimum tread many states. Have the wheels ever been balanced? They are probably 15" steel wheels, many cars have 16" and 17" wheels and we all balance those. We balance car wheels for ride but also tire wear. Trailer tires will wear better balanced too. If you need 4 new tires mounted and balanced you are looking at $250-$500. Depends on budget, what you want your car to ride on and how many miles you will be going. Are yours okay? You need a spare, a place to mount it and a jack that will work. Trailer tire pressure is usually marked around 50+ psi cold. What pressures are yours? Have you torqued the axle bolts? When were the wheel bearings done last?

Trailering your car to an NEQ event is something you need to think about carefully. Ask around. One thing NEQ prides itself on is that you can ask anyone a question at our events. Carefully weigh the “free” expert advice you get and armed with a little knowledge you will have a better trailering experience.

For NEQ,
Dennis Cohan
3/4/2010